HP Color Inkjet Paper, 96 Brightness, 8.5 x 11 Inches, 500 Sheets (20200-0)

HP Color Inkjet Paper, 96 Brightness, 8.5 x 11 Inches, 500 Sheets (20200-0)..

Buy HP Color Inkjet Paper, 96 Brightness, 8.5 x 11 Inches, 500 Sheets (20200-0) By HP

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8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
great paper for the price
By Amazon Shopper
This paper works very well with my Dell Photo 926 printer and text and images show up clearly. It's not the best paper there is but for the price it does it's job quite well.

The paper is not glossy so if you need gloss paper look elsewhere but it does have a nice bright white that makes blacks and grays pop on the paper.

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Opacity
By John H. Adams
I bought the paper to be able to do double side printing without show through. Needless to say it was very disappointing to see that it performed no better than lower priced 24# papers.

17 of 21 people found the following review helpful.
Disappointing for my purposes
By John R. Samsen
I purchased this paper for double sided printing, and found too much see-through, despite the claims in its description.

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Corsair Builder Series CX 500 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS (CX500)

Corsair Builder Series CX 500 Watt ATX/EPS  80 PLUS (CX500)..

GET Corsair Builder Series CX 500 Watt ATX/EPS  80 PLUS (CX500) By Corsair

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130 of 135 people found the following review helpful.
Really great if you're running high end parts.
By Justanotherbuyer
When it comes to Power Supplies, never be stingy and spend a good amount on a solid one. Corsair is one of the most well known PSU companies and their supplies are up top in terms of qualities and specs. When it comes to buying a power supply it is important to remember that two things are needed:
1. Enough watts, look up the total watts of everything you own and buy a power supply that is at least 100w more so as to give you enough headroom for upgrades or overclocking if thats your cookie.
2. Enough Amperage. This is veryyy important. The +12v rail is whats important as most modern cards require a minimum of 25A on a single rail. Dual rails are also nice if they are each at 25. For example, my XFX DD Black edition Radeon HD 7970 will not run on my old psu. It was a solid Rosewill 600w psu which had more than enough watts to run it, however, the thing maxed at 35A on both rails together. The minimum needed for the card was 36. This PSU, has 750w and the following ratings on each charge: +3.3V@25A, +5V@25A, +12V@62A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@3A.
+12v@62A is excellent for the card now. This also gives me headroom if any future parts require more Amperage or watts. The price is seriously perfect here on Amazon. The power supply retails for 100 bucks on other sites.

PROS:
-Great price
-pci express power at 62A (+12v)
-sleeved components with the cables reaching full tower( they arent short cables so it works on an NZXT Phantom and an Antec twelve hundred tower.) Both of which are full towers.
-active APF correction
-80 plus bronze (Not found often at this price point level with this amount of watts)
-750W (More than enough for sli gtx 660's) or in my case, still more than enough for my xfx overclocked 7970, 9 fans, 2 hard drives, fan controller, card reader, blu ray drive, dvd burner, 8gb ram, overclocked cpu and bigger more powerful cpu fan.
-power protection
-a nice big fan

CONS:
-its not modular, but at this price, who cares?aha.
EDIT: OCTOBER 11th 2012-The first one arrived with a definite loud buzzing so I had to exchange it. It happens with mass electronics and typically just bad luck. Corsair was good about it and the new unit was perfect.

DO NOT get stingy when it comes to power supplies. If a 850w power supply is selling for 50 dollars from a random company, you will put your other parts at risk. This one offers Over-voltage and over-power protection, under-voltage protection, and short circuit protection provide maximum safety to your critical system components.

It is also rated at 80 plus BRONZE. Which is excellent for the price. At this price range you mainly see psu's with just 80 plus certification. This one is one step higher.

Lastly, the card offers 0.99 Active Power Factor Correction provides clean and reliable power. (APF) for short. Another thing that is not found at this price range.

Top this with a 3 year warranty and bam, solid computer.
Don't let a cheap power supply kill your whole system, with this excellent brand, only the power supply will die if it eventually happens. A cheap psu will more than likely take it, along with all your expensive components.
For reference, here are my specs>
-Processor: intel ivy bridge i5 3570k @3.5ghz
-CPU Cooler, at the moment: standard intel one. getting: thermal take frio OCK
-Video Card: XFX Double D Radeon HD 7970
-Memory: 8gb Patriot intel extreme series ram @1600
-Hard Drive: 500gb Seagate drive
-Case: Thermaltake Msi Snow edition mid tower
-Power Supply: Corsair Builder Series CX 750 Watt
-Fans: 4x Coolermaster 120mm fans
-Motherboard: AsRock Pro 4 H77 mATX

FOLLOW UP EDIT December 2nd 2013: ***Sorry for the wrong date here. I meant December 2nd****
The power supply is still going very strong. The system it is now powering involves additional lights, watercooling, another drive, and a max overclock on the card. The cable sleeving on the 24 pin board power has become rigid and a ripping in areas. However, with a few cable ties it isn't so bad.

56 of 60 people found the following review helpful.
Amazing 80 Plus Bronze power savings, very quiet
By M. McFall
This is a great deal for an 80 Plus Bronze certified 500W power supply. If you are running any machines 24/7 on power supplies that aren't 80 Plus certified, let alone Bronze, Silver, Gold or Platinum, there are a good amount of power savings to be had. For the layman, anything labelled 80 Plus certified means it is 80% efficient at 20,50 and 100% loads. Bronze, Silver, Gold and Platinum are even more efficient, respectively.

I had thought that I had tuned my file/media server/video encoder to be pretty energy efficient. It consisted of an i5 2500k, 16GB DDR3, no video card, 5 WD Green drives, 3 WD Black drives, one SSD, two internal PCIE SATA 3 extenders, and a BD-R drive, running Win 7 Professional 64. It consumed about 62 Watts at idle, and 73-80 Watts under moderate load, when streaming or transcoding high bitrate 1080p video. Not bad, and about the same as leaving a single incandescent lightbulb on. All of this was powered by a several year old sturdy Thermaltake Purepower 500 (W0100RU). The old power supply was not 80 Plus certified.

I got this Corsair 500W 80 Plus Bronze power supply because the price is fantastic at around fifty dollars, and the old power supply was getting loud. I wasn't expecting phenomenal power savings, but according to my UPS wattage reading, this power supply is kicking butt! My file server now idles around 40W and operates at 56-63W under moderate load. These are big, big savings. I had no idea my old power supply was so energy inefficient. Considering the higher electricity cost in Southern California, this power supply will save me about $4 each month, possibly more if it helps prevent me from crossing into higher Tier level payments. It will pay itself off in savings within a year, and after that, will start providing me with some real savings. $4 a month in savings may not sound like much, but in a tight economy, every bit helps. On top of the power savings, this power supply is also whisper quiet.

Due to the high savings I experienced, and out of curiousity, I ordered a 400W FSP Aurum 80 Plus Gold power supply ($76), to see how much more efficient a Gold certified PSU is in relation to Bronze. Statistically, the difference should be minimal, and I have a feeling this Corsair will prove to be the highest value, in terms of cost:savings. Updates to be posted accordingly.

UPDATE 10/20/2012:

I've put this PSU up against a slightly more expensive, lower wattage, but more efficient FSP AURUM GOLD 400-Watt 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX Power Supply Compatible with Intel Core i3 i5 i7 AU-400 to compare the efficiency ratings of Bronze and Gold.

The FSP Aurum 400 80 Plus Gold came in the mail today and here are the results:
On my system, as detailed above, it idles at 32W, operates around 60W under moderate load. Very, very nice. These results are a bit better than the Corsair, as expected, but I'm going to have to stick with the Corsair as the best value proposition-- My reason being-- the Corsair is a 500 Watt power supply and supplies 38 Amps on a single 12v rail. The FSP Aurum is a 400 Watt power supply and supplies 18 Amps on a single 12v rail, but has two 12v rails for a combined 36 Amps. The Corsair CX500 is useful for a wider variety of computer uses, as the single 12v rail providing 38A meets the minimum requirements of most of today's higher end video cards, while also having great efficiency for lower power 24/7 machines like video servers. The FSP Aurum has up to 36A, but it's split into two 12v rails, and not all video cards have two plugs for power. This, along with the 400W rating mean that it is not suitable for higher end gaming computers. The Corsair's higher Wattage rating means it has a bit more headroom for high end/high power CPU+GPU combos. The price differential, for me at least, means that it would take about half a year longer to recoup the extra cost of the 80 Plus Certified Gold on the Aurum, compared with the Corsair. At the CX500's price point, it is definitely the best bang for the buck, particularly if you are coming from a PSU that isn't 80 Plus, and the machine is on 24/7.

36 of 41 people found the following review helpful.
Does what it is supposed to
By Zalzan
Upgraded my graphics card to a new one (GTX 660) and needed to upgrade my power supply as well. This seemed like a well rated, well priced appropriate option, so I bought it. Was easy enough to install, runs quietly and effectively, has lots of extra hookups to handle whatever I might have in my system.
Only complaint, which is really more a lack of foresight on my part, is that there were no actual instructions in the box. The one thing that would have been super handy to know is that if you have a 4 prong ATX12V motherboard plug, you have to take the 8 prong plug this comes with and split it in half. They clearly explain this on their website, but that is harder to access with your power supply out and halfway replaced :). Otherwise, great product, great value.

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Seagate Barracuda 500 GB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 16MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST500DM002

Seagate Barracuda 500 GB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 16MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST500DM002..

GET Seagate Barracuda 500 GB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 16MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST500DM002 By Seagate

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1970 of 2186 people found the following review helpful.
POWER OF ONE or WEAKNESS OF 0.67 - how to avoid getting the bad drive version...
By niels
UPDATE January 2014:

Thanks to information from many useful comments, a short update:

1) The problem is still the same as it was. Both 2TB drives are still being sold with the same model number. Due to changes in serial nunbers, depth of the drive housing's indentation has now become the best way to distinquish the drives (see user images - bottom right of Amazon's product page)

2) When I wrote this, I didn't feel up to offering an alternate drive recommendation, as my own opinion is based on personal experience and hence anecdotal. Many people asked, but I only answered in email, without adding a recommendation to the review.

Since Backblaze's (an online data backup company) massive long term test, their blog and extremetech's article based on that (see comments, page 26 for a link), I'll just quote their blog: "If the price were right, we would be buying nothing but Hitachi drives. They have been rock solid, and have had a remarkably low failure rate."

So, is that data even relevant for the average home user? I would say yes, because continuous, heavy use of large numbers of drives is the only way to get any half-reliable comparison. Among consumers, usage patterns are simply spread too wide: if someone only turns on their computer 15 times a year (my aunt), any drive will be the same as any other drive, cause with so little use, they will all last till the lubricant in the spindle dries up, and she'll tell anyone who asks that her drive is great. This inability to compare reliability in the consumer space has bolstered sales of shoddy drives for a long time.

If you do use your computer frequently, installing drives exhibiting a <1% annual failure rate at Backblaze certainly beats installing drives with a 15% or even 120% annual failure rate.

**end update**

ok, so this drive is listed as the "Seagate ST2000DM001" and guess what; other than that it sports 2 Terabytes, it tells you nothing whatever about what drive you'll end up with, because Seagate has chosen to obscure and omit relevant Data between different builds with vastly different performance.

The short advice: Only purchase versions xxExxxxx [and possibly x24xxxxx - x24 is unverified info so far, see notes below] of the 2TB model. This uses 2 platters and 4 heads.
It performs 30% better than the version with 3 platters, which has an xxFxxxxx [or possibly x36xxxxx] designation. Avoid those!

You'll need to contact the seller and ask them to check the code on the drive. If they can't verify, don't buy it, better to get a drive from a different company, where its hopefully not a surprise game of what's in the box.

S - SU - Suzhou China
W - WU - Wuxi China
Z - TK - Korat Thailand

F = 3 platters with either 5 or 6 heads (bad 2TB drive or good 3TB drive)
E = 2 platters with 4 heads. (good 2TB drive)
D = 1 platter with 2 heads. (good 1TB drive)

Weight info received in a comment here, suggests that the 'good' 2-platter drive weighs 534 grams, while the 'bad' 3-platter drive weighs 624 grams.

Seagate used to embed the information about their drives in the model number, but now they obscured it, so they can pawn off whatever they want. Send a WxE model to Publications who test drives, and then ship the crappy WxF model to unsuspecting customers who may never realize they're not getting what they thought they were buying. This should really be illegal.

.
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NOTE 1: This was written for the 2TB drive. It turns out Amazon also shows this review for 3TB drives. This info does not apply to 3TB drives, the 3TB drives always have 3 1TB platters. (or not, there have been reports of 5 platter 3TB versions, if you know anything more, let us know)

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NOTE 2: comparison test results - since links get killed in reviews, I'll upload an image to the product page.

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NOTE 3: A relevant post on Seagate's forum stating that these Barracuda have been crippled through redesign [see the link in comment 143 below, page 15]
(Apparently, links are permitted in comments)

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NOTE 4: Someone commented that Seagate removed any reference to the 2 platter version of this drive in the manual (something which is usually only read after the purchase)

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NOTE 5: Someone explained that Seagate made this change due to the flooding of their plant in Thailand. This is not quite correct since chinese 2 platter 2TB drives are also in circulation.

.
NOTE 6: While the channel still has drives with the numbering scheme as described above, there appear to be at least some drives with a new numbering scheme like "Z240PJB3". Would be great if it read out like x24xxxxx, where 2 stands for 2 platters and 4 stands for 4 heads, then this would be one of the good drives while something like x35xxxxx would be the bad drives. (this is just a guess so far, its not verified)

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NOTE 7: Someone added that 2 platter drives (based on other pictures) are 'thinner' with deeper indents on the bottom and top and have a dot matrix code on the bottom right third of the top next to the label. (note that labels are not safe indicators, as they could change an older factory to add barcodes or switch to their latest labeling system any time they wish)

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NOTE 8: Seagate has reacted and added more drive info on this product page, advertising "POWER OF ONE" meaning 1 platter per terabyte. This is good news, but that doesn't mean you can relax and just hit the 'buy' button:
a) channel inventory of drives manufactured prior to this "Power of One" initiative will be around for some time to come, so you still need to verify.
b) the specifications sheet Seagate still links on this very page (as of June 28, 2013) shows 6 heads, 3 disks for the 2TB version. With conflicting information, its still a little hard to tell for consumers if they're getting "POWER OF ONE" or "WEAKNESS OF 0.67"

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Once Seagate "fixes" their spec sheet info for the 2TB drive which directly conflicts with the "Power of One" advertising, I'd be happy to change my conclusion below. After all, it would mean they decided to be honest and transparent again, rather than hell bent on destroying the reputation of their 'Barracuda' brand.

But right now, what is the point of advertising "Power of One" while saying their 2TB drives have 3 platters with 0.67 TB at the same time.

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CONCLUSION:
Seagate's real reason to obscure drive information is being able to use lower bin or older tech platters that can only hold ~670 GB, so they use 3 platters. This is a fine business decision, but an honest company would give it a new Model number/name, as its a different product with lower speeds, lower reliability and higher weight.

But why be honest, if you can cheat and make a few dollars extra per drive, by selling it under the same name as the better drive, which has been reviewed extensively and lauded for its higher speeds?

Last Update: June 28, 2013 (in response to Seagate's new additions to this page and with thanks to Alex and J. Goodman)

460 of 514 people found the following review helpful.
3TB for Synology NAS
By Steve Eagle
This is one of the select few 3TB drives approved by Synology for use in a variety of their NAS devices, so I put 4 of these in a DS411 in SHR with one disk redundancy (basically RAID 5). While anyone will tell you enterprise hard drives are better in RAID 5 or 6 configurations - and they are right, for the most part - it's hard to deny the big price difference in going enterprise: 3TB enterprise drives are well over $550 right now due to the recent Thailand flood and it may be some time before that price drops significantly. While these drives weren't as cheap as the 3TB WD Caviar Green varieties, I will NEVER put Caviar Greens in a RAID 5 again, so the ST3000DM001 quickly rose to the top of my admittedly short list.

I think it's important to point out that IntelliPower (WD) and CoolSpin (Hitachi) technologies are not really ideal for any kind of RAID array using parity. WD Caviar Green drives, especially, are known to sometimes not power up when needed, ultimately resulting in them getting dropped from the RAID array. A good NAS like the DS411 will put the drives into hibernation after 10 minutes of no activity, so you don't really need the benefit of "eco-friendly" drives in this kind of RAID anyways. Plus, with 7200RPM you will get speed improvements, so it's a no brainer to pick a drive like this over those.

That said, of course these do not have TLER, RAFF and other advantages of enterprise-class drives. So you run the risk of more errors, RAID rebuilds and potential failures by choosing a consumer drive like this. But even though the risk is greater, it's not really worth the extra money to go to 3TB enterprise-class, so I feel this is a good compromise of risk vs. value.

UPDATE - 7/12/13

I felt I should come back and update this review (and my rating) due to 2 of these drives encountering bad sectors and getting dropped from my RAID volume within a 1 month period of time. It took over a year and a half for this to happen but it's still an unacceptable loss ratio in my opinion. I still did not encounter that dreaded second disk failure while rebuilding my RAID5 with a new drive - both times the rebuilds completed without a hitch. Once again, that situation has not happened in my 15 years of professional IT work. I ended up going with the WD Red 3 TB NAS Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, SATA III, 64 MB Cache - WD30EFRX to replace the Seagates. Although Synology and other NAS manufacturers ignore the TLER timings in enterprise drives and implement their own, I feel the Reds (and by extension the RE's) are better suited for NAS usage and will be more versatile should I choose to put them in different RAIDs or NAS's in the future.

So in summary, I can't really recommend these Seagates anymore after my personal experience and the drop in price in the WD Reds.

290 of 335 people found the following review helpful.
So far, so good.
By Skullywag
I've dealt almost exclusively with WD for the last 10 years....I had a string of bad luck with Seagate before that, and had sworn off of them. Well, times have changed, and I'm willing to see if Seagate has improved over the years. Post-flood WD seems to be sticking to the absurd prices after other makers are slowly going back down to reasonable prices. And I have to say price played a BIG part in these recent purchases...I REFUSE to pay more for a WD GREEN drive than I did for a Black drive twice the size a year ago...I just refuse.
In a non-raid environment, this 2TB drive seems to be snappy, worked out of the box, and has had no errors...so far so good. Just ordered 2 of the 3TB variety on the strength of this one.

I've been seeing A LOT of neg reviews lately for ALL manufactures in ALL price ranges, it's my belief that the many DOAs have more to do with how the drives are handled in transit, than quality control. I've SEEN the way carriers toss the packages around to get to others, and have even seen them STAND on packages....no bubble wrap is going to compensate for that kind of abuse. Still other complaints I've seen have more to do with ignorance than anything...who in their right mind expects to drop a 2TB-3TB drive in a 10 year old machine and expect it to work out of the box, without using the manufactureres tool? Or expects lightning speeds when a SATA 6GB drive is plugged into a SATA 1.5GB port? And if I read one more review where a clueless person can't understand why a 3 TB reports as less than 3TB in Windows...I'll scream!

I think it stinks that warrantys have been cut, and there is still the question in my mind if post-flood drives are being rushed out to meet demand before factorys are up-to-snuff, or if all that fresh new equipment means a better product....guess we'll see.
From a one week perspective, I have no complaints with this drive. In the weeks to come, if I DO....I'll let ya know.

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Toshiba Canvio 500 GB USB 3.0 Basics Portable Hard Drive - HDTB205XK3AA (Black)

Toshiba Canvio 500 GB USB 3.0 Basics Portable Hard Drive - HDTB205XK3AA (Black)..

Special Price Toshiba Canvio 500 GB USB 3.0 Basics Portable Hard Drive - HDTB205XK3AA (Black) By Toshiba

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681 of 708 people found the following review helpful.
Please Read if Your Drive Isn't "Recognized" Anymore. An Easy Primer and Tutorial.
By TMac
Many people have complained about the Toshiba 2.5" drives (of all capacities and price points) quickly 'dying' after a very short time. This opinion is prevalent on both Amazon and other shopping sites and even Toshiba's direct site itself.

I was in the same boat. My Canvio Basics failed to be "recognized" by my PC within 1 month. My 2-star rating reflects this.

HOWEVER, this is directed toward those who believe "all [my] valuable data is lost forever". I conjecture that 99% of the time it is not, and there is a relatively very simple & inexpensive fix.

The problem is most likely not with the drive itself but rather the 'bridge' circuitry between the drive and the USB connection. There is most likely nothing wrong with the drive itself, and thus nor is there anything wrong with your data. Such was also the case with me.

These drives, regardless of manufacturer or capacity, are essentially identical in their 'guts'. The difference is often nothing more than what you see: packaging, branding, bloatware, and other brand-specific identities. Indeed, crack open a lesser-known brand (Calvary, Fantom, etc.) and there's a good chance you will actually see Toshiba, Hitachi, Western Digital, or some other recognizable name's 'guts' inside.

Here is how to fix the problem.

1. Purchase a 2.5" SATA-to-USB enclosure. Amazon lists them for as little as $3. If you are fortunate enough to live close to a MicroCenter, they sell them for $6. Yes this is extra money and hassle, but your data is worth it, and I presume for many of you this is more convenient than dealing with returning the drive. You probably purchased this drive because it was over $6 cheaper anyway.

2. The drive casing is a 2-piece shell. Use an Exacto knife or boxcutter to gently pry/'slice' open the seam between the 2 pieces. Once you get it 'started' it will be quite easy to pop apart the rest of the fasteners.

3. From here it is simply a plug-and-play situation. Disengage ('unplug') the drive from the circuitry. Be gentle (use the wiggle method). Then 'plug' the drive into your new enclosure and, *Voila*.

There are several Youtube videos showing this as well.

Now, there are several sites/Youtube videos that claim this is not a permanent solution, due to the 'delicate balance' of the rubber bumpers in the original drive. I smell bull-manure, but only time will tell... maybe this new setup will last until the expected life of the drive, maybe it won't. Also, the $3/6 new enclosures will not support USB 3.0; you'll indeed have to shell out extra money for that. Regardless, this process will almost certainly buy you enough time to find another place for your data.

All is not lost! Hope this helps.

257 of 277 people found the following review helpful.
Drive failed in under a year, customer service NIGHTMARE
By Jack Y. Kalish
This drive worked fine for about a year, and now will no longer mount. Toshiba claims that there is a 3 Year Warranty on the product, which is clearly expressed on the box, and in the pamphlet. Well, I spent 3 hours so far trying to file a warranty claim on the product with no progress. I've called about 5 phone numbers and visited 3 websites, and I just keep getting redirected from one person to another. Nobody can help me, and they even refuse to escalate my call to a manager.

The warranty claim phone number put me on hold for about 35 minutes before I gave up, with no indication at all as to how long I would have to wait, or how many other people are ahead of me!

From my point of view, the warranty that Toshiba claims to offer on their external harddrives is total B.S. It seems that they are purposely making it impossible to file a claim their products. So frustrated and upset after this experience, I will be sure to avoid Toshiba in the future.

223 of 261 people found the following review helpful.
An all-around good deal and both Mac and PC compatible...
By Chuck Bittner
At the time of writing this review this drive was $54.99 - a friend needed an external hard drive to back up her Mac (Time Machine Drive) and I wanted to get it with free prime shipping and as was the cheapest that had prime. At 320 GB that is more space than most people are ever going to need for backing up a notebook/MacBook. The drive is USB 3.0 and 2.0 compatible so get pretty decent transfer speeds as you would expect.

If you're a Mac user you will need to bring up the disk utility (found in your utilities folder in the applications folder) and format the drive to something that the Mac can read and write to (HTFS+is the file system that is default format of OS X) but once you reformatted you're good to go.

And this drive is sleek looking and is really ultraportable and I'm a big fan of drives that draw their power from the USB port this means you don't have to carry around an extra wall wart (a.k.a. AC adapter). and I want to note that you could spend a little bit more if you shopped around and get a 500 GB hard drive maybe even a 640 GB for maybe around $70 I didn't really have the time to shop around so with 320 GB because I think it's good to be plenty for her needs.

Thanks for reading I hope you enjoyed and/or found it informative. (How can someone be really enjoy a review? I shouldn't use that term in a review because most reviews are informative but very few reviews are entertaining)

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